Wednesday 31 August: Martigny to Orsieres (hotel). 22km

Les Valettes and the road up the Drance river towards St. Bernard 

The Francigena walking track – so far so good 

Mmmmm…….getting a bit challenging.  That slope on the left is a precipitous drop to the raging river way below

Spent the next 4 hours unloading the bike and transporting it all up and down some challenging tracks for 6-7 kms. 

Dependable and I tackling the next hazard. 

This nice young doctor from Paris very kindly helped me for a few kms. She was very strong!!

Wednesday 31 August. Martigny to orsieres (hotel). 22km only
Had a slow fiddle morning as I prepared for “the ascent”. Got rid of anything superfluous out of panniers. Dithered around the quite vibrant town of martigny looking for a map. 21 franks!!! Then fiddle faddled around trying to work out which way to go. The main road is full of fast cars and big trucks and places with no shoulder. The Francigena looks worth a try. It runs alongside the road but just off into the forest. Didn’t leave martigny till 10am. Started on the road but it was suicide. After about 7km I crossed the Francigena as it meandered through villages so stayed with it as it become an alpine walking track.   There was no way to get back onto the road once I had started on this track. Precipitous cliff, raging river, railway line, and sealed off road!  Except going backwards – but unfortunately I never consider that as an option. The track was so narrow and steep in some points that it was almost impossible to get dep and I past the obstruction. Loose rocks kept rolling off down the cliff. Especially one time with enormous boulder on up side that obstructed half the path, only had about 35cm of slippy gravel then extreme slope. We went over areas of rock slides/ land slips and continually up and down extremely steeply. The girl from Paris was very kind. She had passed me but then came back to say that the track ahead was going to need two persons to get past safely. So she helped me for about 2 hours which was fabulous. The only other person who passed was a young self important young man who hardly even said hi. Eventually I got to the town of Sembrancher and was able to cross the railway line and river and get back on to the busy road. Decided to ride on to Orsieres, another  6 km. It’s so crazy when big vehicles pass so close. They cause a wobble and you feel you will be sucked under the truck. Anyway. Finally pulled off into town of orsieres   Camp ground looks like it’s about 2-3 km up a very steep hill (definitely no). Can’t find a hostel so was pleased to find a renovated hotel opposite the station (col de St. Bernard express)   Was tired but felt I would just pay anything to get a bed, shower, meal. Was 89 Swiss francs. So not too bad. Had a small risotto and salad for dinner. Even have TV!!

Tuesday 30 August :Vevey to Martigny (camp). 67km

Patches of remaining agriculture around the lake. These are mostly grape vines. 

Plenty of yachts, big and small. How did they, or more particularly the big ferries, get to this lake?? 

?

Just love these old ferries. 

Freddie Mercury in Montreux

Very old castle. Forget name

Villeneuve, last town on lake before heading up the Rhone valley

And those magnificent mountains. 

Tuesday 30 August. Corseau near Vevey to Montigny. 67km camp
Excellent day. At first lakeside, looking at houses and restaurants. A castle. Mirror calm lake with magnificent mountains across the water. Then left the built up area (montreau to veuveville) and had designated bike route through forest then alongside the rhone river. Running wide and fast and a pale milky colour. Met a group of 6 English girls who live part time around verbier. They were out cycling so their company spurred me on to ride quite quickly onto Martigny. Alongside the rhone on a designated, well maintained cycle path, so not too hilly. Was a very pleasant days riding. Stayed in a nice clean campground but a hamburger from a mobile van cost $30!!

Monday 29 August: romainmotier to Vevey (camp) 57km

Excellent cycle track towards Lausanne. 

Lausanne

View from my tent. Overcast so photo very dull. But no denying the great view of the pass I head for tomorrow. 

Monday 29 August. Romainmotier-Envy to Corseau near Vevey (camp). 57km
Coolish and overcast all day which was a nice change from the sweaty heat, but no good for photos. Found the bike track the 3 boys had suggested (with the help of the free Swiss app). The cycle route was Off the busy roads and often through forest but still a bit up and down – well it is Switzerland! Stopped in a quiet village and asked lady if I could use the loo. She was Philippino and gave me a history lesson on King Philip of Spain and Magellan. And let me use the loo!
Got to lake around St Supice. Surrounds seem very affluent. The lakeside for 20 km is full of restaurants. I stopped at one waterside restaurant for lunch. Crazy prices. But I had delicious cold roast beef. Pink and very tender. Only cost $40!! The city reminded me of Canberra. All clean and new and prosperous. And with a feeling that everyone works for a govt organisation and is probably an expat.
Then out into the countryside around the edge of the lake. Terraced grapevines and wine “caves”. Spotted a nice camp ground by the waters edge so at 57kms called it a day and rolled in. Put up the tent by the waterside with fabulous views across lake to the mountains. Although low clouds were obscuring the stark rocky cliffs. Chatted with Lawrence and Neil, two guys from UK who had lived here for 7 years cos neil works for nesle. Head office here in Vevey. They were setting up camp next to mine. Ended up sitting in one of their very comfortable chairs. Drinking tea. And invited to dinner!
Couldn’t get to sleep. Wine? Strong wind? Coffee? Saw a hedgehog in camp. So cute

Sunday 28 August: forest camp to30kms north of Lausanne. Camp at romainditch (?)

Cheseau. Tour de France 16 July 2016. On nice boulangerie. 

Fast pace living in Cheseau

All this cycling is knocking the stuffing out of me

Jounce. And yes that is a ski run on the far hill!! Mount d’or

Border to Switzerland. Guards checking Swiss cars for contraband groceries!

 

Sunday 28 august. Forest camp Chevreuil to camp north of Lausanne (romainmotier-envy) 67km
Was so busy cycling today, onwards and onwards. Left the forest house 7.30 and didn’t find anything open for coffee or breakfast till Censeau. Bikes decorating everywhere. The Tour de France came through here 16 July 2016. Wonder if the Tour de France did the Bracon to Thesy stretch that I mostly walked yesterday. Would be interesting to know the slope. The roads got busier as I approached the Swiss border. All the French and Swiss heading home at end of holidays? The young guys I’d met a few days ago had made an excellent suggestion to go thru to Vellorbe on the busy road then it would be very quiet which it was. And alongside the rail so flat as well. Could see I wasn’t going to make it to the camp grounds on the lake at Lausanne so checked phone for campgrounds and was one a few kms away, so even though only 4pm I went there. Magnificent (and but scary) view of the alps across a valley. A French couple, who live at the park during summer, had camped around australia for 3 years (1971-74). Rained in the night with gusts of strong wind. I wondered if I need make any special preparations for the trip over the alps. I don’t have any cold weather clothing.

 

Saturday 27 August: Arc en Senans to Forest camp on Jura (Doubs?) plateau. (Camp)

My Friday night Gite in Arc En Senan

approaching Bracon (lunched with English couple)

See fortress high on RHS cliffs……

now see Bracon and fortress WAY below!!

Saturday 27 August.
Lovely start to the day. Breakfast at the Gite and squirrelled the remaining bread, cheese and yogurt into my pannier. Expected to be on a road over the hills and it started that way. 20 lotus sports cars went racing past and quite a lot of other traffic, then I saw an unexpected bicycle route sign. Eurovelo loisirs? Don’t know where that is. It had “Mouthard” on the sign, but the road indicated turn right for Mouthard , and this track went left. Anyway I took the cycle route and it was delightful. Not a car on the road. It followed the loui river (?). Pastoral scenes of cut grass, contented cattle and the thickset, white tailed and maned caramel ponies swishing away the biting flies. Brilliant green forests and the babbling river. Saw a group of canoeists heading off on an expedition with much excitement. Then the circus arrived in the village (Pont Lesley) and circled into the grass area beside the old church. Even found a cafe playing great music and got a good coffee. And it’s only 10am!!
The day continued well but did include a lot of gruelling hills. Most of which I walked up. Good chances I had, included taking a quiet road that headed straight for a steep mountain but ended up following a pretty stream through a narrow limestone gorge pass. Another good chance was stopping in the only village (since 10am) that had a shop (Bracon) and chatting with an English couple from Oxford who were having lunch (I had picknicked earlier in the gorge). After that was the gruelingest ascent but pleasant through the forest and past the farmland.
With the slow progress there was no way of making my scheduled stop, A choice of camp spots at lake de st point. South of pontarlier. And no other camps to be found closer. Was contemplating a wild camp in the fir tree forest when saw a sign to a bar restaurant alledgedly a few kms along a forestry road, branching off from my road. Very strange location. Lovely old stone building “Maison Forestiere du Chevreuil”, and there is a bar restaurant! He says I can camp and have access to an outside toilette. But no shower. And no stream nearby. But it’s good, and free. And it’s tonight’s accommodation solved. Even if only 42km and 5pm. It’s been a very hot day.
Didn’t eat much of my dinner. The omelette was delicious but way too big. The lettuce had black slimey patches and the chips were terrible.

Friday 26 August.Auxonne to Arc et Senans. (Gite) 57km

In the village Chatenois

The Germans, on their way to Spain, write ” Dependable ” in German 

Woodpiles everywhere

My room at the Gite. A real bed and my own clean bathroom. With loo paper!

Friday 26 August Auxonne to Arc et Senans (Gite de france) 54km
Had a bit of a look around the old town of Auxonne. Was a garrison town so walls and turrets and things. 14th century. Got some supplies at the supermarket and got dependables tyres pumped up (should be 6 bar, was 4). Should get it done every week, not every 4 weeks. Cleaned out panniers and tossed some stuff. Headed off around 10am. Quiet road through villages then joined eurovelo 6 at Audelange. Was along Doubs River/canal. Quiet and scenic. But only on ev6 for short time as it goes north east up towards Germany and I’m heading south east I’ve actually seen some hills looming ahead. Met a nice German couple who are going to their house in Spain. 110km south of Barcelona!! By bike. 1,600kms.
Had a pleasant ride on another bike track through a vast forest. Lots of big logs. This region is very busy collecting wood for winter (I presume). Long stacks of wood, all exactly the same length (just under a metre ). They must have very big fireplaces.
Was very hot all day (30-34 degrees). The Warmshowers person I had messaged yesterday has not responded so I was really wondering where I might stay. Mostly the smaller French villages don’t have any accommodation. Not like a country pub. Not even a campground. But anyway, as luck would have it there was a sign saying “hotel – Bar” with directions to near the church. I never found the church but noticed a small sign on an old stone house suggesting they might have accomodation. Turned out to be a gite. (French BnB) but their sign is around the back on their shed! Anyway, Christine , the proprietor, was very helpful. She spoke very slowly so I nearly understood. I must have looked a bit of a fright. Red faced, hot, sweaty and tired. But Christine efficiently had Bike in shed, then showed me to a Nice room with ensuite up the ancient wooden stairs. And wifi. First for all week so can finally upload photos and send off blog. Except it only works down in their centre room. After a welcome shower, I walked further into village about 6.30pm to look for food but the only two possibilities were both closed. There was a huge columned edifice in front of an arch like an abbey doorway – but it turned out to be an old salt mine. Built in 1770’s and now a museum for both the history of salt mining and to the famous architect. Some nice jewellery and artists studios and a store selling local artisinal wine and other local products (just closed). So peanuts and a banana for dinner.
Was thinking how “tribal” these European countries are. They certainly look and feel different to each other. The architecture, the farming, the food and of course the language. But I find it interesting the the Dutch man likes the French people but thinks the country is an unorganised shambles. The Germans I met yesterday think the Brits are drunken cheapskates who fly enmasse on budget airlines to gather at particular Mediterranean beach spots and drink too much

Thursday 25 August. Mornay to Auxonne (camp) 67km

Saone canal near Flammerans

Auxonne had these metal statues all around the town. All with bicycles

Thursday 25 August. Mornay to Auxonne. (Camp) 64km
Started off early. The mist was rising off the canal. Was very peaceful. Saw beavers and young deer. Usually the only wildlife (?) I see, is dead on the road.
My canal ended and am now alongside the wide river Soane .
Met a Swiss lady on an ebike (back operation and breathing problems), she has walked EVERY Camino! (Spanish, Portuguese , English, primitivo, French from lepuy, etc, etc). She said Pontailer sur Soane was nice camp but I got there at 12.30 and even though I hung out at the riverside restaurant catching up with computer stuff, I’d only done 40kms so I decided to go the extra 20kms to next camp at Auxonne. Swam twice along the way as is very hot. Just went in fully clothed in my riding kit. Very refreshing. Camp ground almost empty but has a pizza restaurant. I should go back into the town. But I’m tired. Ate half a pizza. But two beers ensured a very good sleep.

Wednesday 24 August. Langres to Montigny Mornay (camp)50km

Source of the Marne River, old barn – Cohons (note weight), “Ecluse” house (at each lock), the Saone River

Wednesday 24 August. Langres to Montigny Mornay villeneuve. (Camp) 50km
Went for a cycle around the entire Langres city walls. Quite an amazing old place.
To get back onto the canal track I need to stay on the road for a while as the canal goes through a 4km tunnel and Cyclists and walkers are not allowed through. I passed the source of the Marne river.  A pond in amphitheatre of rock walls. Couldn’t see where the water flowed out. But the Marne heads north. The Marne / Soane canal which I joined after about 10kms of hilly riding has the Soane river and canal flowing south. So Langres must be the watershed.
Whilst riding before the canal I passed a little calf, just a few days old, but almost dead. It was on the side of the road, up against the fence, covered in flies. If it hadn’t been a punishingly steep hill I would have ridden down to the farmer I could see ploughing his field down below. But I waved down a passing car and of course then I couldn’t find the right words – the farmer (ferme? No, that means closed), the man on the big machine (pointing!). There is a baby … Non cheval (horse), non poulet (chook), – what’s the word for CALF??? Or cow? Anyway the man got tired of me gesticulating and “mooing” and came to look at the poor calf all covered in flies. But it leapt up and charged through the loose barb-wire fence and staggered off across the field. There was no other stock in any paddock nearby and I would have liked the man to go summon the farmer. But he seemed to think the matter was resolved and drove off.
Was very pleasant alongside the canal. Often in the shade of tall beech trees. Even a pear tree with lots of fruit fall so I cycled in to select one to eat and found myself in amongst a bloody thousand bees, or wasps! The path was mostly well formed and slightly downhill now.
Met three young Swiss (they live in Lausanne ) or Belgiums. (I don’t know what the term is for people from Belgium!) they were heading for Belgium. Had taken them 2 days to ride from Lausanne. But one lad has blown a knee so is catching the train at the next station. They checked my route and said it was all good except for the last bit into Lausanne for which they gave an alternative . We swapped maps.
Funny camp at small village near canal beside the river. Only 4 other campers. No food here or at the village. So it’s 3day old cheese and baguette for dinner. And peanuts! Actually for such a strange little place it turned out to be the only place in the village where you could get a meal and a drink. At about 7.30 about 6 carloads of locals turned up and the owner/manager of the camp appeared, opened up a small wooden cabin and meals (hamburgers, chips, baguette rolls, croque Monsieur ). Beers. We’re prepared for the crowd. I had a meat hamburger with tomato and lettuce and it was excellent. 3€. ! Shared table with a 70yo man from Netherlands. He cycles each year, normally with his wife but she’s just had hip operation. He’s been down to the Pyrenees. Just a 2,000+ km round trip. Only trouble with finding a meal was that all the locals chatted and drank till 2am!

Tuesday 23 August. Froncles to Langres. 76km

Canal de la Marne a la Soane

canal – Riaucourt

Working barge – but can’t imagine what it is carrying as has to be the most inefficient way to move anything. 

One of many locks

Langres main square. Statue of ?Diderot (don’t know anything about him)

Langres

Langres from the city walls

Camp Langres. Just inside city walls

View from Langres camp

Tuesday 23 August Frontles to Langres. (Camp). 76km
Peddled about the hilly town of Frontles looking for an open Tabac. Unsuccessful! Only place open was the boulangerie _ so got a small quiche and baguette for lunch and a pastry with raisins for breakfast. Headed off along the canal path. Still it is a good sealed track and perfect cycling weather although up around 30 degrees in afternoon.
Was pulled over to side of road contemplating where to go after another “Route Barre” sign and a rather convincing wire mesh fence across the track, when two Australian cyclists pulled up. Canberra couple who have for many years travelled to france, hire a car, stay in various Gites for about a week at a time and do lots of cycling about. Before long Panam had us back on track and through a short tunnel. We rode at quite a pace (they being much fitter than me even though they were on Small-wheeled folding Bike Friday’s).  It was amazing how riding with others gave me fresh energy. I stopped dwelling on my aches and pains and stopping every 5 minutes and we scooted along for 20km or so before stopping for picnic lunch beside the canal.
They went on ahead after lunch and I fell asleep under a tree! They found me there on their return journey.
I thought I had only 20kms till my scheduled stop in Langres but it was closer to 40. So late in the day (7.30pm) I’m still grinding my way slowly up the really steep hill to reach Langres. So glad I did as it is an intact old walled city. Google got me lost in the narrow winding alleyways. At one time even riding through a private courtyard in the middle of a home. The camp ground is an excellent grassy area on top (just inside) the city walls with a magnificent view down to the valley and villages way below.
My intention was to go back into the lively town centre and have dinner after showering etc. but was chatting to nice couple from Netherlands (with two very cute young children) and so just had __—- peanuts, tub of yoghurt and some grapes for dinner!!

Monday 22 August. Day 23. Saint Diziers to Froncles. 58km

Canal – Autigny Le Grand

Canal – Thonnance les Joinville

Froncles

Camp at Froncles. Beside river

Monday 22 August. Saint Dizier to froncles (very nice camp ground by the river cascades) 54km
Was late getting out of hotel this morning as taking the opportunity of better wifi to get blog up to date. Then went to “decathlon” the outdoors shop cos it was just across the road. They didn’t have the map I needed but I bought a cap as you don’t have to wear a helmet in france so I don’t when I’m off the road.
Today was totally on the Marne canal cycle track. All sealed but not 100% smooth. Very pretty country with swiftly flowing Marne river often nearby, thick forests on the hillsides and charming farms dotted along the way. The villages are tucked back up the hillsides. Chatted with a nice couple from Zimbabwe who are canal touring on a boat.
I was to go stay at a Warmshowers host but after 56km my back was hurting too much. so at 5.30pm when I saw a delightful campground next to some falls in the river I swung in.
After setting up and showering I cycled over bridge into village of frontels but not one shop open. The “carrefors” grocery shop normally open till 8pm. But closed today for family business,, luckily I had a boiled egg from breakfast and a banana. Chatted to middle age young man from Netherlands (160km/day). Then a nice couple from Belgium.
I have a tourist map of the region “La Haute-Marne en Champagne”. It’s an area one could spend some time in. It’s very pretty with rivers, forests and lakes plus lots of historical places. But I am intrigued that at the end of August (round about now) I must not miss the “Hunting and Nature Pleasure Salon”!!! I wonder where I find this “Salon” – no specific details are given.